Apr
12
Written by:
Robin
Sunday, April 12, 2009
What's in the boot, laddie? Top Taste of the Event: my old friend Simon Brooking, from back in the days neither of us can remember but they had something to do with a capella hardcore singing and Maspeth, Queens, has been the Brand Ambassador for Laphroig for some time now; and the bonnie lad had a few tricks up his Green Wellies at the center of the table (thanks to Peter Silver from Malt Maniacs for clueing me in): a 5 year Laphroig. That's right, no typo, 5 years old and just an outstanding drink: explosively peaty, silky smooth, chock full of smoky excitement and refinement in spite of its age (or lack of it). This was my last dram of the evening but it stayed in the back of my mouth during the ride to Baumgarts in Englewood, where I bored poor Michael Gordon of Charmer Sunbelt to tears with my endless praise it during the Chinese dinner there. Simon says, "I'm trying to convice the distiller to release it, and even if we do, the Swedes are betting their economic fortunes for 2009 by buying it all up ahead of time". After my scathing review of the senseless Octomore (see prior), this was the big Peat to Beat.
- Nose: Like honey, baby, mixed with heather.
- Palette: Grit and Graphite, explosively sharp, followed by mellowed wood. What the f**k just happened to my tongue, man?
- Finish: all the way to tomorrow. Honeyed smoke and earth, lays down on the tongue, billows up in the back of the mouth and makes you forget you live in the city.
Also outstanding (in Simon's other boot): 30 yr. Ardmore. Smooth and creamy, Ardmore is the old timer back on the shelves after being the blender's choice for decades. Welcome, we're looking forward to seeing you more often.
It's Scott to Be Good: We always taste some delightful drams at the Scott's Selection Table and I do admire their discriminating palettes. We spent some time with a few of their aged choices (Auchentoshan 1983, Glenlivet 1977, Glenrothes 1980), all very nice, drinkable and round, if a bit boring. However, 2 particularly caught my attention:
Bunnahabhain, 1977 (bottled in 2005), 49.1%:
- Nose: Cotton candy, chocolate malt, toffee and floral sweetness
- Mouth: Creamy and lucious
- Finish: Short and dry, with heather and earth mixed on the back; honeysuckle sweet coming forward after.
Caol Ila, 22 yr, Cask Strength:
- Nose: Sumptously rich and smoky, the tell-tale mellow bacon and coal dust.
- Palette: light, fresh, belies its age
- Finish: Light ash, ham hocks, smoked pork chops, billowy peat and earth. My god, its time for dinner.
The Temple of Malt, Road Show Edition: Jonathan and Marlon from Park Avenue Liquors presented 2 particularly tasty and delightful expressions from Hart Bros...neither of them oldsters, and it goes prove that age is no barometer of quality:
Abelour, 12 yr, Bourbon cask, 50%
- Nose: Sweet, spicy with coconut and bing cherry
- Mouth: Sweet, viscous and smooth
- Finish: medium big and fulfilling on the back of the tongue with more cherry. Drink this after dinner
Springbank, 10yr, Single Cask (re-charred sherry butt)
- Nose: Salty, floral, with green vegetation
- Mouth: Sea spray and smooth, sweet again like corn flower
- Finish: Still maritime, floating away as it fills the mouth, recovering with hard tack candy.
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